SOFT FRUIT BUSHES AND CANES
General Considerations – Care and Maintenance
1. Planting in soil:
Choose the right spot for your plant;
- Almost all fruiting/flowering plants need plenty of sunshine to produce good crops, so find an open sunny spot (there are a few exceptions such as Morello Cherry and Bilberry for shadier spots).
- Avoid frost pockets. Late spring frosts will do far more damage to flowers and embryo fruits if trapped in a hollow or against a solid fence. East-facing sites are also much more susceptible to frost damage – the rapid thaw caused by the rays of the early morning sun are far more damaging than a slow thaw out of direct sunlight.
- Allow enough space for each plant, specific information is available within the specific plant instructions.
- Soil types: Most flowering plants will thrive in most normal garden soils, though some do have specific requirements. Apples and pears for instance are not suited to very acid (peat-rich) soils, while blueberries will not last long on alkaline (chalky) soils. Most plants need soils to be reasonably well drained, raspberries suffer particularly badly if their roots sit wet over winter, being shallow-rooting they also need their soil to be kept moist in summer.
- If the “right spot” is along a wall or fence, pick a plant that can be espalier or fan trained, or a bush like a blackberry that needs the support of a fence or wall.
Ground preparation, staking and watering-in;
When you receive your tree / plant / bush soak the root ball in a bucket of water overnight. Ideally you should plant your tree / plant / bush the next day.
Improve soil structure by thorough digging before planting, ideally to a depth of about 45cm (18”) – two spades deep.
If possible, mix well rotted manure or compost into the top soil.
Dig a hole comfortably large enough to take the root ball, remove the pot or bag. Plant, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil, or up to 2.5cm (1”) deeper.
For Blueberries, Bilberries, Cranberries and Lingonberries only, apply RootgrowTM Ericoid (available from Trees & More) directly to the roots before planting – this will help the plant to establish quickly.
For all other plants, apply RootgrowTM mycorrhizal fungi (available from Trees & More) for the same purpose.
Tread firmly and water-in thoroughly.
Stake the plant and secure with a tree tie to prevent it rocking before the root system is established.
Potted plants:
These are ideally suited for small gardens and patios. The roots of the plants are in a smaller more confined space than they would be if they were in soil. As a result, more care is needed.
Water frequently in dry weather and make sure that the plant always has sufficient water. The plant will use up all the nutrients in the pot as the supply is limited by the compost volume, so feed a liquid feed every 1-2 weeks during the main growing season: May – August.
As the plant grows, repot your plant into fresh compost and prune the roots to stimulate fresh vigour every 1 or 2 years. Aim to replace at least a third of the compost.
Weeding & Mulching;
Keep the area around the plant free of weeds, particularly during the first year. An annual mulch of well rotted compost will greatly improve moisture retention and soil structure, it will also help suppress unwanted weeds.
Watering;
Keep the soil around the plant moist throughout the first growing season. In later years only water during prolonged dry spells, drenching thoroughly no more than once a week. One exception to this are figs, which are amongst the most drought-tolerant of plants. Container grown plants will need more regular watering and should never be allowed to dry out. Aim to keep the compost moist at all times, but do not leave standing in water or you risk drowning the roots. Figs are amongst the most drought-tolerant of plants when planted in the ground so should rarely be watered. If grown in a pot however they will still need regular watering.
Specific Planting Instructions
Blackberries & Hybrids
Planting
Two pairs of horizontal wires, 60cm (2ft) and 1.2m (4ft) above ground, will be required to support the fruit-bearing canes in future years. The planting distance will depend on the variety. Compact varieties can be planted in the open ground 1.8-2.4m (6-8ft) apart, but more vigorous varieties may require up to twice the amount of space.
Pruning
PRUNING FLORICANE VARIETIES:
Floricane varieties fruit on spurs from the previous year’s shoots. To encourage vigorous new growth and help establishment.
cut all stems back to 30cm (1ft) above ground level at planting time. In future years your fruit will come entirely on the previous season’s canes which then die back to ground level. To prune therefore after fruiting just cut out the canes that fruited and train in the new canes, tying them onto the support wires from where they will produce their fruiting spurs the following summer.
PRUNING PRIMOCANE VARIETIES (Reuben & Black Cascade):
Reuben and Black Cascade are primocane varieties. Unlike floricane varieties, primocanes fruit on the first year wood.
REUBEN – In March following planting cut all canes down close to ground level. In June/July, once the canes reach a height of 1-1.2m (3-4ft), ‘soft tip’ them by removing the top 2-5cm (1-2”). This will encourage bushy growth. It is important to complete all ‘tipping’ before the end of July. To maximise the primocane (autumn) crop, in winter just cut back all the canes to ground level, clearing the way for the new cane to grow and fruit the following autumn.
Reuben can also be used to produce two (smaller) crops a year. To achieve this, instead of pruning all the canes down to ground level in the winter, only remove the top part of the cane down to where fruiting started. The following summer fruiting laterals will grow from these canes. Once this summer crop has finished, the spent cane should be removed completely to give space to the new cane which will carry the autumn crop.
BLACK CASCADE – After potting keep your plant compact by soft-tipping the new growth in June and July, thereafter, allow the shoots to grow and fruit unhindered. Then in winter cut back hard, re-pot and start the cycle again.
Feeding.
Feed liberally in spring. If growing in a pot your plants will need regular feeding during spring and early summer with a balanced (usually liquid) feed. For application rates follow the instructions on the packaging. To keep them growing healthily they will also need fresh compost to root into each year. In the early years this is best done by potting them into progressively larger pots (or in the case of Black Cascade, if you have planted three plants per basket, these can be separated into separate containers). Once the final pot size has been reached (we would recommend a pot that is 45-50cm /18-20in in diameter), remove the clump from the pot in late winter each year, cut or chop away about a third of the rootball from the bottom and around the edge, part fill the pot with fresh compost and re-pot. If after re-potting the compost level looks low, top up with additional fresh compost.
Pests & Diseases
Blackberries are generally trouble free but watch out for damage to the fruit from the Raspberry Beetle. If troublesome this may be controlled by installing raspberry beetle traps. Any chemicals should be used strictly as per the manufacturer’s instructions.
Blueberries
Planting
Plant blueberries about 1.2m (4ft) apart, the much smaller bilberries 20-30cm (8-12in) apart.
For all other planting instructions please see the ‘Planting’ section on page 1.
Pruning
Blueberries do not require pruning in the first few years. To prune in later years remove each winter about 20% (one fifth) of your bush, cutting back to strong new growths and removing any old branches that are likely to touch the ground under the weight of the crop. Bilberries should need no pruning at all.
Feeding
Do not use fertilizer containing lime or calcium. There will be adequate nutrients in most garden soils to promote healthy development. In poor soils, feed sparingly with ericaceous fertilizer in spring. Container grown bushes should be fed regularly with ericaceous fertilizer through spring and early summer, as directed on the packet.
Pests & Diseases
Blueberries and bilberries are generally trouble-free. Any chemicals should be used strictly as per the manufacturer’s instructions.
Cranberries & Lingonberries
Planting
Plant your trees as soon as possible after receipt, allowing sufficient space for them to grow. Bush trees will grow 2.5-3.5m (8-12ft) in height and spread. Cordons should be restricted to 1.8-2.4m (6-8ft) in height and can be spaced 60-90cm (2-3ft) apart.
For all other planting instructions please see the ‘Planting’ section on page 1.
Pruning
Cranberries and lingonberries need no pruning.
Feeding
Cranberries and lingonberries must not be given fertilizers containing lime or calcium. There will be adequate nutrients in most garden soils to promote healthy development. In poor soils, feed with ericaceous fertilizer in the spring.
Pests & Diseases
Cranberries and lingonberries are generally trouble free. Any chemicals should be used strictly as per the manufacturer’s instructions.
Gooseberries, Currants & Jostaberries
Planting
Plant your trees as soon as possible after receipt, allowing sufficient space for them to grow. Bush trees will grow 2.5-3.5m (8-12ft) in height and spread. Cordons should be restricted to 1.8-2.4m (6-8ft) in height and can be spaced 60-90cm (2-3ft) apart.
For all other planting instructions please see the ‘Planting’ section on page 1.
Pruning
PRUNING (FOR A BUSH):
GOOSEBERRIES: to encourage vigorous new growth and help establishment cut all stems back to 30cm (1ft) above ground at planting time. No further pruning will be necessary for the next 3-5 years while growth is vigorous.
Your fruit will come mainly on the previous season’s shoots so it is essential to encourage as much vigorous new growth as possible. To prune therefore in later years remove each winter about 20% (one fifth) of your bush, cutting out from its base the oldest and lowest wood that will be carrying the fewest fruit buds.
BLACKCURRANTS & JOSTABERRIES: to encourage vigorous new growth and help establishment cut all stems back to 10cm (4”) above ground at planting time. No further pruning will be necessary for the next 3-5 years while growth is vigorous. Your fruit will mainly come on the previous season’s shoots so it is essential to encourage as much vigorous new growth as possible. To prune therefore in later years remove each winter about 20% (one fifth) of your bush, cutting out from its base the oldest and lowest wood that will be carrying the fewest fruit buds.
RED, PINK & WHITE CURRANTS: to encourage vigorous new growth and help establishment cut all stems back to 10cm (4”) above ground at planting time. From the first year’s growth select 8-10 main stems (leaders) evenly spaced around the bush as in a wine glass. These will remain for the whole life of the bush – about 20 year. Remove any other shoots and cut back the 8-10 leaders selected to half their length. In future winters cut back the top-most shoot from each of these leaders, again removing about half the previous season’s growth. Every other side shoot should now be cut right back to within 1cm (½”) of its main stem. The fruit will be produced from these spurs.
PRUNING (FOR A CORDON):
This method of training is suitable for gooseberries, red, pink and white currants and recommended where space is limited.
In June each year prune all new side shoots that are longer than 15cm (6”) back to 5 leaves. In winter prune the side shoots again back to 1 or 2 buds.
In summer, tie the leader to a bamboo cane to keep it straight. Each winter shorten the leader by one third of the new growth until it has reached the desired height. In subsequent years the leader should be stopped at five leaves and pruned back to one or two buds.
PRUNING (FOR A STANDARD):
GOOSEBERRIES: pruning is exactly the same as for a gooseberry ‘bush’, just 80cm higher, so the trim at planting is to the cluster of stems at the top of the main stem, and the ‘base’ of the bush is where it has been grafted at the top of the main stem. In the unlikely event of any stock shoots growing from the main stem below the head these should be cut off.
REDCURRANTS: pruning is exactly the same as for a redcurrant ‘bush’, again just 80cm higher, so at planting trim back the cluster of smaller stems at the top of the main stem, then proceed selecting main stems from the first year’s growth as above. Should any stock shoots grow from the main stem below the head, cut them off.
Feeding
Top dress each spring with a balanced fertilizer such as Pomona Fruit Feed to help promote vigorous new growth that will fruit the following year.
Pests & Diseases
These fruits are generally trouble free but on gooseberries watch out for attacks of Gooseberry Sawfly (causing defoliation) and American Gooseberry mildew (white blotches on the leaves or fruit, eventually turning brown). On blackcurrants watch out for powdery mildew (white blotches on the leaves). Any chemicals should be used strictly as per the manufacturer’s instructions.
Raspberries
Planting
Plant your trees as soon as possible after receipt, allowing sufficient space for them to grow. Bush trees will grow 2.5-3.5m (8-12ft) in height and spread. Cordons should be restricted to 1.8-2.4m (6-8ft) in height and can be spaced 60-90cm (2-3ft) apart.
Training
All but the shortest of raspberry varieties will require support to keep the fruit up in the air and sunshine – and out of the mud. There are various ways to do this. The two most common are either to tie the canes loosely in clumps around single stakes, or to tie them to two or three horizontal wires (or between pairs of horizontal wires) erected around 75cm (2ft 6”) and 1.5m (5ft) above ground. For other more involved methods please consult one of the references mentioned below. Dwarf varieties such as ‘Ruby Beauty’ and ‘Yummy’ are usually self-supporting so should need no extra support.
If you have planted Long Canes, regular watering and feeding through the first growing season is particularly important while their roots are still establishing.
Pruning
LONG CANES: long cane raspberries are supplied with approximately 1.2-1.5m (4-5ft) of the previous season’s cane still attached so you can plant them and harvest your first crop from July onwards in the same growing season. Long canes should be planted out as above and immediately trained up and along the supporting wires. Do NOT prune them at all when planting or the heavy crop expected in the first year will be lost. After they have produced their first crop, treat as ‘Summer Fruiting Varieties’ below.
SUMMER FRUITING VARIETIES: to encourage vigorous new growth and help establishment cut all stems back to 30cm (1ft) above ground at time of planting. In future years your fruit will come on the previous season’s canes which then die back to ground level. To prune therefore in August/September just cut out the canes that have just fruited and train in the new canes, tying them to the support wires from where they will produce their fruiting spurs the following summer. Prune the dwarf Ruby Beauty similarly.
AUTUMN FRUITING VARIETIES: cut back your canes to 30cm (1ft) above ground at planting time. In future years your fruit will come in late summer and autumn on the cane that grew earlier the same year, following which it dies back. To prune therefore in winter just cut back all cane to ground level, clearing the way for the new cane to grow and fruit in the following year. Prune the dwarf autumn-fruiting variety ‘Yummy’ similarly. It is often possible to get an earlier “summer” crop off autumn canes by only cutting the canes back halfway instead of right to the ground, though this may reduce the vigour of the new canes and with it the autumn crop.
Feeding
If growing in the ground top-dress liberally in spring using Pomona Fruit Feed.
If growing in a pot your canes will need regular feeding during spring and early summer with a balanced usually liquid feed. For application rates follow the instructions on the packaging. To keep them growing healthily they will also need fresh compost to root into each year. In the early years this is best done by potting them on into progressively larger pots. Once the final pot size has been reached (we would recommend a pot that is 45-50cm/18-20in in diameter), remove the clump from the pot in late winter each year, cut or chop away about a third of the rootball from the bottom and around the edge, part fill the pot with fresh compost and re-pot. If after re-potting the compost level looks low, top up with additional fresh compost.
If you have planted Long Canes, regular watering and feeding through the first growing season is particularly important while their roots are still establishing.
Pests & Diseases
Raspberries are generally trouble free but watch out for damage to the fruit from the Raspberry Beetle. If troublesome this may be controlled by installing raspberry beetle traps. Any chemicals should be used strictly as per the manufacturer’s instructions.
Elderberry
Planting
Plant your trees as soon as possible after receipt, allowing sufficient space for them to grow. Bush trees will grow 2.5-3.5m (8-12ft) in height and spread. Cordons should be restricted to 1.8-2.4m (6-8ft) in height and can be spaced 60-90cm (2-3ft) apart. For all other planting
Pruning
Elderberries naturally form large multi-stemmed bushes which can grow to a maximum height of about 5m (16ft). To encourage vigorous new growth and help establishment cut all stems back to 30cm (1ft) above ground at planting time.
Varieties with attractive foliage look best when growing vigorously so should be cut back hard every year or every other year in winter. The flowers are produced on both the current and the previous season’s shoots, so they will still flower and fruit, even in the year following severe pruning.
Feeding
Most garden soils contain sufficient nutrients for healthy growth though a top-dressing of a balanced fertilizer such as Pomona Fruit Feed in spring can be beneficial, especially on light free-draining sandy soils, or to supportvigorous growth following severe pruning.
Pests & Diseases
Elderberries are generally trouble-free.
Figs
Planting
Plant your trees as soon as possible after receipt, allowing sufficient space for them to grow. Bush trees will grow 2.5-3.5m (8-12ft) in height and spread. Cordons should be restricted to 1.8-2.4m (6-8ft) in height and can be spaced 60-90cm (2-3ft) apart.
Pruning
If unpruned a fig will naturally develop into a large bush or small multi-stemmed tree, though with a limited amount of pruning and training it can be grown along a wall or as a patio standard. Just trim it back to control its size or shape as required at any time during spring or summer. If in growth the cut stems will ‘bleed’ milky sap, but this will stop fairly quickly without causing the plant harm. To maintain the compact “mophead” shape of a standard fig, trim back to the desired shape and size twice a year: at the end of winter and then again in midsummer. Do wear gloves and cover up while working with figs, contact can cause skin irritation with sunlight.
Feeding
Most garden soils contain sufficient nutrients for a fig to grow healthily, though a high potash top-dressing such as Pomona Fruit Feed applied in spring can be beneficial. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers such as chicken manure which stimulate growth rather than flower bud and fruit formation.
Figs in pots will need regular feeding during spring and early summer.
Cropping Habit
Figs produce two or three crops each year but only one crop usually ripens in the UK climate. The pea-sized embryo fruitlets formed in the autumn need to overwinter to produce a crop of figs the following summer. The figs produced in spring and early summer usually get insufficient sunshine to ripen properly, remove them in late autumn.
Winter Protection
Embryo figs can be damaged by frosts in colder areas or in a severe winter. Protect branches with fruitlets in winter by wrapping them in horticultural fleece. In very low temperatures add straw, dry grass or pipe lagging inside the fleece. A fig in a free-standing pot may be moved to a frost-free place such as a cold greenhouse, garage or garden shed, or if remaining outside, protect the root system by lagging the pot in bubble wrap or sacking.
Pests & Diseases
Figs are generally trouble free. Any chemicals should be used strictly as per the manufacturer’s instructions.
Black Mulberries
Planting
Plant your trees as soon as possible after receipt, allowing sufficient space for them to grow. Trees will grow to approximately 4m (13ft) in height and spread after 10 years.
Pruning
Prune back the leading shoot at planting time to the height at which you want the head to form. Over the next two winters cut back all shoots to form a balanced ‘bush’ framework. In later years remove any crossing or tangled branches, keeping the centre of your tree open to sun and air.
Feeding
Most garden soils contain sufficient nutrients for a tree to grow healthily, though a top-dressing of a balanced fertilizer such as Pomona Fruit Feed in spring can be beneficial.
Pests & Diseases
Black Mulberries are generally trouble free.
Cobnuts & Filberts
Planting
Plant your bushes as soon as possible after receipt, allowing sufficient space for them to grow. Cobnuts and filberts will form small multi-stemmed bushes and should be spaced 4.5m (15ft) apart.
Pruning
Cobnuts should be restricted to a height of 1.8-2.4m (6-8ft). No regular pruning is necessary, just trim or cut back hard to control the size or shape as required. In August, vigorous lateral growth can be controlled by ‘brutting’. This involves breaking off strong lateral growths by hand to half their length and leaving them hanging. This will control the vigour and allow the air and light into the centre of the bush to ripen the fruit buds. The ‘brutted’ branches are normally cut back to 3 or 4 buds in February.
Feeding
Most garden soils contain sufficient nutrients for a bush to grow healthily, though a high potash top-dressing such as Pomona Fruit Feed in spring can be beneficial. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers such as chicken manure which stimulate shoot growth rather than flower bud and fruit formation.
Pests & Diseases
Cobnuts and filberts are generally trouble free. Netting may be required to protect your crop from squirrels.
Harvesting
Harvest when the husks begin to yellow in autumn. Once dried the nuts will keep for months.
Walnuts
Planting
Plant your trees as soon as possible after receipt, allowing sufficient space for them to grow. Bush trees will grow 2.5-3.5m (8-12ft) in height and spread. Cordons should be restricted to 1.8-2.4m (6-8ft) in height and can be spaced 60-90cm (2-3ft) apart.
Pruning
No regular pruning is necessary, just trim or cut back hard to control the size or shape as required. Walnuts should only be pruned between mid-summer and mid-winter. Do not prune in late winter or spring when the sap is rising. Spring or summer pruning cuts will bleed profusely.
Feeding
Most garden soils contain sufficient nutrients for a tree to grow healthily, though a top-dressing of a balanced fertilizer such as Pomona Fruit Feed in spring can be beneficial.
Harvesting
Gather the nuts when they fall in autumn and de-husk them. Once dried they will keep for months.
Pests & Diseases
Most common pests of walnuts are not too serious, causing purely cosmetic damage, examples include the Walnut Leaf Gall Mite. Walnuts can be affected by other diseases such as Walnut Leaf Blotch, Walnut Blight, Grey Mould and Honey Fungus. Any chemicals should be used strictly as per the manufacturer’s instructions.
Sweet Chestnuts
Planting
Plant your trees as soon as possible after receipt, allowing sufficient space for them to grow. Bush trees will grow 2.5-3.5m (8-12ft) in height and spread. Cordons should be restricted to 1.8-2.4m (6-8ft) in height and can be spaced 60-90cm (2-3ft) apart.
Pruning
Sweet Chestnuts should be pruned when they are dormant during autumn or winter. No regular pruning is necessary, just trim or cut back hard to control the size or shape as required.
Feeding
Most garden soils contain sufficient nutrients for a tree to grow healthily, though a top-dressing of a balanced fertilizer such as Pomona Fruit Feed in spring can be beneficial.
Pests & Diseases
Sweet Chestnuts are generally trouble free. Gather the nuts quickly once they fall lest the squirrels get there first!
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